Five of the world’s seven sea turtle species are found in Brazil.
For over 20 years TAMAR project is responsible for identifying and protecting nesting beaches and feeding areas, doing research, promoting awareness and involving the local community.
Thanks to good planning, loyal sponsorship and an innovative merchandising program they are able to maintain 20 bases in Brazil. Releasing more than 600 thousand hatchlings every year, the TAMAR bases have become important tourism attractions and mean income to 1200 families.
Area: Natural
[Portuguese] O arquipélago de Fernando de Noronha, composto por 21 ilhas e ilhotas de origem vulcânica, está situado a 345km de Natal, capital do Rio Grande do Norte/RN e a 545Km de Recife, capital de Pernambuco/PE. É sítio de reprodução da tartaruga-verde (Chelonia mydas), que utiliza as praias arenosas do lugar para desovar entre os meses de dezembro e julho. É também área de alimentação, crescimento e repouso para juvenis desta espécie e da tartaruga-de-pente (Eretmochelys imbricata).
As praias de desova apresentam características propícias a um monitoramento diário, inclusive noturno nas áreas principais. A do Leão concentra 80% das ocorrências. As demais desovas acontecem ao longo do mar de dentro, entre as praias do Sancho e da Conceição. Cada estação reprodutiva, registra em média 100 desovas, gerando 8.900 filhotes da tartaruga verde.
O TAMAR iniciou suas atividades na região em 1984, quando o arquipélago ainda era território federal administrado pela Aeronáutica (hoje é território do Estado de Pernambuco).
Em 1986, foi criada a APA-Área de Proteção Ambiental. A praia do Leão, principal área de desova do arquipélago, tornou-se o embrião do Parque Nacional Marinho, criado por decreto federal, em 1988.
Fernando de Noronha é uma das bases mais importantes para o trabalho do Tamar.
É um verdadeiro laboratório natural, pois a transparência do mar oferece excelente condição ao desenvolvimento de pesquisas sobre a biologia e comportamento das tartarugas marinhas em ambiente natural, sobretudo debaixo d’água.
Além do monitoramento de fêmeas, durante o período reprodutivo, a base mantém um programa de marcação e recaptura de tartarugas que utilizam o arquipélago como área de alimentação, crescimento e repouso, durante uma etapa do seu ciclo de vida. Desde 1990, mais de mil tartarugas já foram marcadas pelo Tamar através desse programa, em que os pesquisadores realizam mergulho livre, autônomo ou rebocado.
Além do mais, o grande fluxo turístico que o arquipélago registra é estratégico para o trabalho de sensibilização e educação ambiental, principalmente através do Centro de Visitantes-Museu Aberto das Tartarugas Marinhas, o qual tivemos o prazer e honra de visitar durante nossa recente visita ao arquipélago. Todos os visitantes do Museu-Aberto do TAMAR recebem uma palestra gratuita sobre a vida selvagem a ser encontrada no arquipélago, assim como, são instruídos a como se comportar em frente à natureza, sem causar quaisquer impacto ambiental. Todas as palestras são às 9 da noite, e seguem por cerca de uma hora até uma hora e meia. Extremamente informativas,claras, concisas e ministradas por pesquisadores e voluntários do TAMAR. É a perfeita preparação para os que irão aventurar-se a explorar as ilhas na manhã seguinte. Nós adoramos a experiência, eu enquanto bióloga, e meu esposo, agora apaixonado pela vida marinha. Um sucesso e uma oportunidade única de vivenciar, aprender e compartilhar conhecimentos.
This is the first in a series of posts on our recent trip to the Brazilian Archipelago of Fernando de Noronha: leisure, research, adventure, photography.
Peaks of the Southern Atlantic submarine ridge form the Fernando de Noronha Archipelago off the coast of Brazil, representing a large proportion of the island surface of the South Atlantic and the rich waters are extremely important for the breeding and feeding of tuna, shark, turtle and marine mammals. The islands are home to the largest concentration of tropical seabirds in the Western Atlantic. Baia de Golfinhos has an exceptional population of resident dolphin. The Fernando de Noronha archipelago covers the majority of the main island and includes the majority of smaller offshore islands and islets. The islands are part of a large submarine mountain system of volcanic origin, which rises from the ocean floor some 4,000 m in depth. The Fernando de Noronha volcano is estimated to be between 1.8 million and 12.3 million years old. The coastline is complex, with a number of high cliffs and sandy beaches. The north-west facing shores are relatively calm, whereas the south-east shores face the predominant currents and winds and are largely rocky shores with significant wave action.
Arriving… flying along the coastline
And here, a snapshot of “who’s got an unchallengeable view” of this paradise:
The highly productive coastal waters around islands are used by many fish species for spawning and as a refuge for juvenile fish. The shallow waters also provide habitat for benthnic organisms (such as coral, sponges and algae). Oceanic islands therefore play a key role in the reproduction and dispersal of marine organisms, providing a staging point for the colonization of other coastal areas and the surrounding ocean. There are less than 10 oceanic islands in the South Atlantic and the Fernando de Noronha Archipelago represents almost 50% of the islands in terms of surface area. As the site makes up such a large proportion of insular South Atlantic coastal area, it is an important repository for the maintenance of biodiversity for the entire South Atlantic basin.
Fernando de Noronha is also the only know location for Insular Atlantic Forest – a subtype of Atlantic Rainforest. To date over 400 species of vascular plants have recorded, including three endemics. The archipelago also contains the sole oceanic mangrove in the South Atlantic. [Source: UNESCO/CLT/WHC]
A great alternative to escape from the urban madness, enjoying the warm weather and calm waters…
| Igarassu is one of Brazil’s oldest settlements, located in the island of Itamaraca (“rock that sings” in Tupi-Guarany language) and is full of rich cultural heritage, including the oldest church in Brazil, which dates back to 1535.
The Itamaraca Island is connected to the continent by a bridge, and a short trip there will take you to an enchanting paradise of warm, calm ocean waters and coconut tree forests. One of the singular beauties of the island was already featured here, when our family took a boat trip into the mangrove scenario… The Lima-Miranda family is curious and adventurous: in one single day, we visited the city of Igarassu, and its famous church, the original Dutch Fort (“Fort Orange”), and had time and energy to spend through the intriguing branches of mangrove trees, covered with budding oysters and fresh water crabs! All this is described throughout the blog – if one’s got time and interest to search for! 😮 Today, I’m sharing the images of the Church of Saints Cosme and Damião, built in 1535, in the city of Igarassu, Pernambuco is Brazil’s oldest church (Roman Catholic):                     |
Our family went on a day trip to the Itamaraca Island, located in northern coast of Pernambuco. There, we had the opportunity to go an boat expedition through the the mud flats (mangue) area. The name of the island, Itamaraca, comes from the Tupy-Guarany language, and means “rock that sings”. The tropical holiday Island of Itamaracá is connected to the main land by a 400 meter long road bridge and is situated just 45 minute drive from the city of Recife and it’s international airport. It has an area of round 65 km² and rises to an altitude of about 20 meters.
The island was annexed for the Portuguese crown in 1526 by Francisco Garcia and in that year the first settler was Duarte Coelho from Portuguese Pernambuco. In 1631 the large fortification Forte Orange was built by the Dutch under Frederico Henrique de Orange, who at one time lived on Mauritius Island. In 1866 a lighthouse was erected on the island. Nature in abundance, cultural and historical sites are to be found on this island which is separated from the mainland by the “Canal de Santa Cruz”.
The “mangue” is a type of vegetation found in areas where the waters from the sea and from rivers are mixed, adapted to the high salinity and to the muddy soil – an unique experience to a biologist mom, a passionate photographer dad and, for our delighted and curious children… See below some of the images taken during the the “Miranda Family expedition” – hope you all enjoy them, as much as we have!
Our family went on a day trip to the Itamaraca Island, located in northern coast of Pernambuco. There, we had the opportunity to go an boat expedition through the the mud flats (mangue) area. The name of the island, Itamaraca, comes from the Tupi-Guarany language, and means “rock that sings“. The tropical holiday Island of Itamaracá is connected to the main land by a 400 meter long road bridge and is situated just 45-minute drive from the city of Recife and the international airport. It has an area of round 65 km² and rises to an altitude of about 20 meters.
The island was annexed for the Portuguese crown in 1526 by Francisco Garcia and in that year the first settler was Duarte Coelho from Portuguese Pernambuco. In 1631 the large fortification Forte Orange was built by the Dutch under Frederico Henrique de Orange, who at one time lived on Mauritius Island. In 1866 a lighthouse was erected on the island. Nature in abundance, cultural and historical sites are to be found on this island which is separated from the mainland by the “Canal de Santa Cruz“. The “mangue” or mangrove is a type of vegetation found in areas where the waters from the sea and from rivers are mixed, adapted to the high salinity and to the muddy soil – an unique experience to a biologist mom, a passionate photographer dad and, our delighted and curious children… See below some of the images taken during the the “Miranda Family expedition” – hope you all enjoy them, as much as we have!
… a good way to spend the Thanksgiving Weekend with family and close friends. Left the “concrete jungle” behind us. instead, traded the car rides for horseback experiences; went from taking elevators to climbing trees; completely forgetting the crowded streets, instantly replaced by the white sanded coastline…
“The SocialMoms Blog of the Week is 3rd Culture Children – where Raquel shares her love of travel and parenting.
Congratulations to 3rd Culture Children: the SocialMoms Blog of the Week! As someone who has done very little travel in my lifetime, I’m always fascinated by travel blogs, and this is no exception. I love that Raquel is able to talk about parenting while sharing the aspects of their travels to a variety of countries across the globe…” Click here for Nikki’s article/full interview:
“The SocialMoms Blog of the Week is 3rd Culture Children – where Raquel shares her love of travel and parenting.
Congratulations to 3rd Culture Children: the SocialMoms Blog of the Week! As someone who has done very little travel in my lifetime, I’m always fascinated by travel blogs, and this is no exception. I love that Raquel is able to talk about parenting while sharing the aspects of their travels to a variety of countries across the globe…” See below Nikki’s article/full interview:
“MILTON, only 7 miles from the Delaware Bay in a direct line but many more by the convoluted Broadkill, is one of the little old Delaware towns that prospered through shipbuilding and shipping in the 19 century. The shipyards have long ago disappeared from the foot of Union and Federal Streets… The business section displays a rare lot of the permanent store awnings, wood or metal roofed, that was used to shade the sidewalk in front of nearly every store in lower Delaware, but have disappeared from main streets. The old part of the town contains many old cypress-shingled houses characteristic of eastern Sussex County.” – From Delaware – A Guide to the First State, American Guide
“MILTON, only 7 miles from the Delaware Bay in a direct line but many more by the convoluted Broadkill, is one of the little old Delaware towns that prospered through shipbuilding and shipping in the 19 century. The shipyards have long ago disappeared from the foot of Union and Federal Streets… The business section displays a rare lot of the permanent store awnings, wood or metal roofed, that was used to shade the sidewalk in front of nearly every store in lower Delaware, but have disappeared from main streets. The old part of the town contains many old cypress-shingled houses characteristic of eastern Sussex County.” – From Delaware – A Guide to the First State, American Guide Series, 1938
I recently took the girls to visit the Beach Museum, while my two boys (husband and son) would enjoy some quality time at a nearby Park.
Currently, the Museum‘s exhibit is called: “Skimming the Surface: Surfing, Skimboarding, and Floating off the Delaware Coast” – intriguing and exciting for a curious pair of toddler’s eyes…
Hiding in the middle of the state of Bahia, there’s the district of Casa Nova, famous not only for its dunes, but also for housing one of the best known wineries in the Northeastern Brazil.
The initiative of “new irrigation” and “deviation of the river course” for irrigation purposes, comes from observing the way Californian wines are produced, and taking advantage of the similar weather, soil and temperature between the two countries, try to replicate in Brazil the already well-established North American success.
Teresina, the capital of Piauí, is the only capital in the Northeastern Brazil, not located on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Although the state carries the unfair lable of being warm and not as attractive as the other northeastern states of Brazil, Teresina, as well as all the other major cities, are surrounded by interesting natural attractions, like several river paths.
São Luís do Maranhão is the only Brazilian state capital founded and ruled by the French, later being defeated by the Portuguese.
Founded in 1612, the city is named after French King Louis XIII. After the French left, São Luis was also occupied by the Dutch, until the Portuguese colonizers took over.
Unfortunately, not a lot of material evidence remains from the French and Dutch periods, but the historic downtown buildings (+ 3,500), mainly covered with tiles in the manner of Portuguese architecture, respond for naming São Luis a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1997. Brazilian folkloric traditions, cultural expressions, and a resemblance with the “caribbean reggae” are well alive in São Luís. The most important among them is the bumba-meu-boi, a festive pantomime which takes place during June Festivals.
São Luís is known as Brazil’s Reggae Capital. Cultural affinities between São Luís and the not-so-distant Caribbean turned reggae into a local passion with unique traits such as “cheek-to-cheek” dancing and distinct lingo.
We’re celebrating a year at Post.
It went by extremely fast. A lot has happened: we welcomed a baby into our lives, our middle child had her first day at School and maybe, her ‘quasi-first boyfriend’ (?), and our boy had his first sports events. Also, several trips for work and leisure, a couple of (unforeseen) visits to doctors/hospitals… All in all, just a few bumps here and there..
We’ve adjusted. We’re enjoying it. Brazilian culture wasn’t a total mystery for me, considering I was born and raised here. The challenging part was coming back as an adult, with my own family, new traditions, new cultural influences, but still adapting to and respecting what I call ‘my roots‘.
Proud of who I am, proud of who we’ve become, as a working couple and traveling family…
Traveling around is a rich life experience. It has its challenges, as well. One ends up gaining and losing along the way. The balance is still positive, though. Wouldn’t change anything, not even a bit.
Our hearts could belong to more than one place. Our 3 TCKs are the living example of that.
We move, adjust, adapt to new places, new jobs, collecting little mementos from sites that’ve become close to us, in one way or another; similar to so many other families in the FS, coincidently, the subject discussed this week by the State Dept Round Up.
Meeting new people is the opportunity to cherish new friends, an apparently endless process of hellos and goodbyes... It’s not easy to bid farewell, but we do. As we’re expected to. Life goes on, so we should keep moving…
Difficulties come and go. Learning is always the ‘extra bonus‘ we carry with us when departing.
From this point on, the “countdown” begins. Soon we’ll have a ‘glimpse‘ of the upcoming future. What will that be?? 😮
Today my husband and I celebrate the 10th anniversary of our first date. Here we are, again at a beach town in Brazil, remembering the first moments. Now we’re joined by a lovely army: our 3 children.
The Miranda Family got to spend the Brazilian Valentine’s weekend at the Love Beach (Praia do Amor), in Pipa, Rio Grande do Norte. Kids had a great time and the most deserving mom and dad got to enjoy each other’s company. Life has taught us a lot: we’ve been learning how to be more understanding, especially regarding little things, which in the beginning, used to upset us. Now, they just seem so small in the large scheme of things… We’re still learning…
{Note: the children’s nanny also came! (smart, right?)}
More details – about our relaxing weekend, the nearby beaches we got to visit – coming soon…
As promised earlier, here are some more images from our relaxing-exploratory weekend in Rio Grande do Norte, in the district of Tibau do Sul, a few hours from Recife . We got to spend a very restful weekend at Hotel Pousada Morada dos Ventos, where our incredible host (hotel owner), Tania, made sure every detail would be taken care…
Our favorite part? Hard to say… Somewhere between the hammocks, the short trips to the village, our best Mexican restaurant experience in the NE (so far!), and the peaceful walks along the white sands, searching for dolphins… Kids loved it. Baby napped as much as she could. Mom and dad enjoyed their opportunity to connect with nature, and with themselves…
Feels good to be together. Feels great to be back in a bikini! (Honestly, it was also part of the adventure!)
…they come from a single factory, located in a little place called “Campina Grande“, in Paraíba, one of the Northeastern states of Brazil!
Currently, there are more than 40 models of Havaianas and with all the colors available, that adds up to about 350 variations. It makes for any woman’s (or man’s) wildest designing dream!
Finding Havaianas in Brazil isn’t hard – since they’re available at 150,000 points of sale in the country
(I imagine right now my mother-in-law is so jealous…)
However, not every store will have all the models, since a lot of Brazilian retail is based on small stores with a limited inventory. It’s possible to find a pair of the famous flip-flop anywhere you go; even at the most remote beach village in the country – it’s guaranteed that, in the absence of a formal “store” or “market”, somebody would be selling them out of their house! And why? It seems these flip-flops are so much loved that owing one pair, just isn’t enough! It didn’t take long for Brazilians to realize that the frugal design of Traditional Havaianas was great for creative intervention.
Women customized theirs. Surfers started a trend when they removed the straps from Havaianas and put them back on with the sole side up. Tops are currently available in 20 solid colors. They, too, are popular for customizing. Brazilians use them to make Havaianas “bordadas” (embroidered) and “silkadas”, meaning, printed with silk-screen. Images say more than words: take a look at this video!
Even super-models wear them! Luckily Brazil’s got a Brazilian supermodel to showcase the flip-flops – it goes out of the stores like water! Just to top it off, the best reason to have them in your closet: Havaianas give back to the Brazilian community (and before my husband’s visit to the factory, I had no idea about it!). They’ve done some amazing work through celebrity contributions and donations, and it feels good to buy shoes that help others…
Here are some images from the most recent visit to the Havaianas Factory, in Paraíba, May 2011. And a quick and surprising piece of information: 7 pairs of havaianas are produced per second, and the factory produces 645,000 pairs per day!! Here is where the magic happens:
And guess what my dear husband ended up forgetting to bring from his trip??
The “Passion of the Christ” enactment is a major celebration in Brazil, and marks the end of Lent in the Country. This is my first bilingual post, or, at least, the first attempt! This is a way to honor our host Country, its people and my roots, especially the one who taught me to understand, respect and appreciate traditions – my mother, who turns 71 today…
Enjoy the short movies showing The Last Temptation, The Last Supper and The Crucifixion.
(Português) Veja texto em Português logo a seguir, após o texto em Inglês! Aproveitem as imagens e vídeos sobre a Tentação, Última Ceia e Crucificação“…
April 14, 2011. Husband and I left Recife and went to Nova Jerusalem, Pernambuco. Guests for the official pre-opening for the reenactment of the Passion of Christ that takes place every Easter Week (Semana Santa, or Holy Week) in Nova Jerusalém, an open air theater-town in Fazenda Nova, a district of Brejo da Madre de Deus, in Pernambuco.
The rock walls of Nova Jerusalém (New Jerusalem) enclose an area of about 38 square miles and nine sets. Nova Jerusalém is the largest open air theater in the world. The Passion of the Christ is performed every year at Easter in a purpose-built 100.000m2 theatre-city in the arid backlands of Pernambuco, in Northeastern Brazil.
Thousands of visitors arrive every year to watch the performance. New Jerusalem is a theater-city, surrounded by a stone wall, with 7 doors and 70 towers, spread in an area of about seventy thousand square meters, which is equivalent to one-third of the encircled area of Jerusalem in Jesus Christ’s days.
Scattered throughout this area, it’s possible to find the 9 stages, which are in fact, buildings made of granite, corresponding to the acting & make up scenery, route that public and actors must follow. In Nova Jerusalém during every night of Holy Week, and on Easter Saturday evening, the story of Christ’s Passion and Death is presented.
We left Recife on a tour bus provided by the State government around 2:30pm and arrived at the Theater Site at almost 6pm. All the official guests headed out to the open air theater/built city. The enactment began a little past 6pm, with the actors and spectators moving from one Station to another, as the play went on. All in all, great acting, very emotional moments, and indescribable experiences – hope the images help to explain the magnificence of the event.
Background: The object of the Stations (of the Cross) is to help the faithful to make a spiritual pilgrimage of prayer, through meditating upon the chief scenes of Christ’s sufferings and death. It has become one of the most popular devotions for Roman Catholics, as well as featuring other Christian artifacts of the local area.
Feel free to share and/or use the images, just making sure you mention the source. The 2 “photographers” over here will be happy to see their “work” shared away….
THE PLAY:
(Port) Os Profetas Moisés e Elias anunciam a vinda do Filho de Deus. Jesus aparece transfigurado entre os dois profetas.
Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane
The Sermon
(Port) Sermão da Montanha: Jesus prega à multidão, acolhe as criancinhas, cura e ensina o Pai Nosso. Ao saber da prisão de João, o Batista, decide seguir para Jerusalém.
Discussion at the Temple
(Port) Discussões no Templo: Jesus entra triunfalmente em Jerusalém, aclamado pelo povo. Expulsa os vendilhões do Templo e discute com fariseus, escribas e doutores da lei.
The Last Supper
(Port) A última ceia: Jesus reúne os seus discípulos para a Última Ceia e deles se despede, dando-lhes o pão (o seu corpo) e o vinho (o seu sangue).
Jesus is betrayed by Judas and arrested – A Traição de Judas e a Prisão de Jesus
The Temptation
(Port) Agonia no Horto: Jesus sofre antevendo sua Paixão e Morte.
Herode’s Feast – (Port) O Bacanal de Herodes
Jesus is judged by Pilate, Jesus is condemned by the Sanhedrin
O Julgamento de Jesus, a Condenação
(Port) Jesus perante Herodes e Pilatos:
Herodes pede a Jesus um milagre e não é atendido. Irritado, o rei manda-o de volta a Pilatos. O Pretório Romano é invadido pela multidão e pelos que querem a morte de Jesus. Pilatos, o Procurador de Roma, chega ao Pretório numa biga romana e saúda os seus legionários.
Jesus is scourged and crowned with thorns, Jesus takes up His cross and is helped by Simon to carry His cross – (Port) Humilhação e Coroação de Jesus, Jesus leva sua Cruz
Jesus meets the women of Jerusalem – (Port) O Encontro com as Mulheres de Jerusalém
Jesus is crucified, Jesus promises His kingdom to the repentant thief, entrusts Mary and John to each other – Crucificação
Jesus dies on the cross
It started raining torrentially after Christ’s Crucifixion (?), making impossible to take photographs from the Ascension to Heaven… Fortunately, we brought home “heart pictures” and emotional memories…
in Portuguese/em Português:
Das ruas para o maior teatro ao ar livre do mundo, assim começou a ser encenado o espetáculo da Paixão de Cristo de Nova Jerusalém.
Era 1951 e o comerciante Epaminondas Mendonça teve a ideia de realizar pelas ruas da pequena vila de Fazenda Nova, no período da Semana Santa, a encenação da vida, morte e ressurreição de Jesus Cristo.
A inspiração partiu após ler em uma revista como os alemães da cidade de Oberammergau realizavam uma apresentação semelhante.
Enquanto Epaminondas atraia hóspedes para o hotel da família e movimentava o comércio local, Sebastiana, sua esposa, de veia artística cultural e teatral, cuidava da direção do espectáculo.
De maneira simples, porém criativa, as apresentações contavam ainda com a participação de familiares, na maioria mulheres, e amigos que juntos contracenavam nas ruas utilizando-se do cenário local.
No ano de 1956, Plínio Pacheco chega a Fazenda Nova e encanta-se pela bela atriz Diva Pacheco, filha de Epaminondas.
Desde então são 42 anos de representações ininterruptas dentro das muralhas, atraindo espectadores do Brasil e do mundo. O espetáculo, que chega a sua 44ª edição, será encenado entre 15 e 23 de abril. Neste ano, Lacerda, que completa 33 anos, representará Jesus Cristo pela terceira vez. Já Fafá estreia no papel de Maria, mãe de Jesus. O elenco conta ainda com a atriz Vanessa Lóes, mulher de Lacerda, como Madalena; Sidney Sampaio, como Pôncio Pilatos; e Carlos Reis, Herodes.
Também na primeira apresentação deste ano foi usado, pela primeira vez, o recurso de áudio-descrição para deficientes visuais. De acordo com a organização, o sistema permitirá que o público, com um fone de ouvido, escute uma narrativa sobreposta ao som original da peça descrevendo imagens, sons e textos. A encenação da “Paixão de Cristo” é dublada. Em 2010, 80 mil pessoas vindas de 22 estados brasileiros e 12 países assistiram ao espectáculo. De acordo com a organização do evento, a ideia de construir uma réplica da cidade de Jerusalém para as encenações da “Paixão” foi de Plínio Pacheco, que chegou a Fazenda Nova em 1956. O fascínio que o espetáculo da Paixão de Cristo de Nova Jerusalém exerce no público não está apenas na grandiosidade das construções, na atmosfera que ali se respira e na beleza da história de Jesus. Reside também na participação ativa do público, diante da mobilidade das cenas. Entre um ato e outro, uma multidão movida pela emoção passada pela boa interpretação dos atores, caminha entre os cenários, transportando-se por algumas horas à época de Cristo e revivendo sua saga.
The year: 2009. Raquel and kids in Mozambique. Leonel back in DC. Everyone working. Before the family got together again that year, Leonel had a couple of work trips. In the itinerary: East Timor – Dilli (former Portuguese Colony) and Indonesia (visiting Jakarta and Bali). Enjoy the beautiful images he brought back home – and it’s okay to be jealous… I was!
Dili-Timor
Indonesia
This is the third post on our time in Southern Africa, while posted in Mozambique with the State Dept (2006-2009). Swaziland is a living wildlife sanctuary, a great place for a restful weekend, and is covered with tradition, history and excitement. We had the opportunity to witness the Annual Reed Dance, a unique spectacle, only described by images – no words would do justice to the exotic beauty!
Swaziland is home to glass (Ngwenya Glass Factory), batik and candle factories and Swazi candles (Ezulwini Valley) are handmade using the age-old trade bead technique perfected in the glass making city of Murano, Italy. This technique is called Millefiore and it was adapted and utilized in the African candle making craft. Millefiore means “thousand flowers” and was first used in ancient Alexandria and perfected in Venice and Murano and it is now a major attraction in the Kingdom of Swaziland. Find here wonderful images of the Candle Factory in Swazi! The website owners did a much better job than I could’ve ever done!
This post is the first one of a series. Here a few images from places we got to discover because of work… Travel & work sometimes, surprise us with very positive results!
As you may know by now, being together as a family is the most important thing for us…
This post is dedicated to our daughter Marcela, born in Pretoria, RSA, while we were posted in Mozambique.
During those 3 very intense years, we had the opportunity to visit South Africa several times, go on Safaris at the Kruger Park, walk by the Waterfront in Cape Town, visit the wine country (Stellenbosch), enjoy the Reed Dance in Swaziland…
Struggled for the first time as a single-mom, when husband left to Rwanda for the PEPFAR conference, and exercised the same single-motherhood skills for almost a year when he was back in DC, for work.
And we all survived. And we all learnt… lots of fun stuff! We also had a few med-evacs to RSA (FS families know exactly how intense med-evacs could be!), but hey, it is all part of the package!
Enjoy the images! Khanimambo, Moçambique!
Mozambique, Southern Africa, 2006 – 2009. Visiting all the 10 provinces & Capital Maputo
Date: June 2007.
Work trip to Kigali, Rwanda, for the PEPFAR Implementing Partners Meeting. Leonel got to visit the Capital, learn about the Country’s history and attend the Conference.
Raquel stayed back in Maputo (Mozambique), recovering from an extended work trip to the province of Zambezia. And it all happened before we learnt that we’d become parents a second time…
World largest street carnival
So, here we are!
We’re another foreign service family, posted in Recife, Pernambuco, Brazil, a place showcasing a magical mix between the Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish and native Indian cultures. Attractive for its scenery with ocean islands, rivers and bridges, we’re in the middle of a cultural diversity, a place full of history and captivating for its touristic attractions. Somehow, this month I found myself (a working-around-the-clock mom of 3 kids under 6 years old) with enough energy to go out, buy party costumes for the kids’ school carnival festivities, and search for a cute clown outfit for my 3 month old baby. All happening during my scavenge hunts along the neighborhood streets! March has arrived, and we’ve lively experienced the largest street carnival our five pair of eyes have ever witnessed: the so-called Galo da Madrugada (“Rooster of the Dawn”) and the exuberant colors on the streets of Olinda!
This massive parade – The Galo – happens every carnival Saturday, in downtown Recife, capital of Pernambuco. Its creator’s, Mr Enéias Freire came up with the original idea for a street party around the late 70s; and since then, it has never stopped, nor decreased in size!
The Guinness Book of World Records assigns the Galo da Madrugada as the biggest carnival parade in the world, considering the number of participants. This year (2011), my husband and I were invited to watch the official opening (Friday evening), with governmental authorities, as well as the popular parade (Saturday) from the Mayor’s Official Box (“camarote”). At the “camarote”, besides watching the magnificent parade, it was possible to get your make up professionally done, or, if wanted, a relaxing massage while waiting for the brunch buffet!
Observing my American husband’s reactions to the spectacle, it seemed like he’d been blown away by the magnitude of the event, the sheer number of people, the music, the dancing, the party atmosphere… It was simply wonderful just standing up there and looking over the whole thing: the look on people’s painted faces, their smiles, their tears of joy and pride. Indescribable beauty – the number of participants is said to have been over 1,600,000 people!
The Costumes
Yes! Here, you can definitely find and buy anything on the streets; the world is for sale: lots of little “bancas” (street shops) sell everything imaginable, from hula skirts to cowboy hats. From pirate family costumes to Samba Schools full gear. Outfits and suggestions for a 9-week-old baby, to bright appliqué dresses to a ninety year old! You name it, and, if not found right on the spot, believe me, somebody would surely recommend a professional who could tailor it down for you – all before the very first scream from the “Rooster of the Dawn” street parade! Vampires, fairies, columbines, members of the “The Justice League”, kids’ cartoons’ characters, former and current “Country presidents” and “government representatives”… all in one place.
Every single possible costume could be found among the party goers. Under one nation – the Brazilian Popular Street Carnival, partying rules are always respected, and everyone enjoys the festivities in peace. Joy surrounds the neighborhoods.
Colors are mixed with the majestic sounds of the African atabaques, the bangôs, guitars, drums, tubas. Cold beverages are sold throughout the path, specifically designed and isolated for the street party. Celebrities from Brazilian television and from the big screen are also present, blowing kisses, to a delirious crowd of frenetic fans.Painted faces, bright from the dripping sweat, reflect the sun light.
The heat does not prevent the people from dancing while following one of the 26 different fully decorated floats on the streets of Recife – this is the first and only “Galo da Madrugada”, a genuine representation of democracy, popular choice and why not say, the pure desire to just be happy, for 4 straight days..
Traditition
Festivities here start around December, just after Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebrations – as locals begin preparing for the official Carnival, which starts a week (or two, depending where you’re living) before Ash Wednesday. The pre-Carnaval parties usually consist of percussion groups practicing in local clubs, city streets and squares, and even Carnival ball masques. People begin working on the “giant dolls” who will be displayed and gain life during the main parade. The “giant dolls” walk, move their bodies and dance to the contagious sounds of frevo.
There are various rhythms: from native Indian and African Maracatu beats to Frevo and Samba. Carnival officially starts with the Galo da Madrugada, with endless parties in downtown Recife, attracting altogether as many as a million praters and observers, life myself.
There is a queen and there’s a king for Carnaval. They’re both elected by popular choice, during the several “balls”, which precede the Carnaval week. And, to “their countrymen’s honor and glory”, the “royal pair” makes its unique appearance during the main parade. Their exclusive float brings glamour and pride to their “loyal people”, and, why not say, to every other plebe representative, which is watching, mesmerized and enchanted.
And, talk about Olinda, with its spectacular scene! Olinda (neighboring city, 15 minutes from Recife) is responsible for many of the pre-Carnaval festivities. Some, actually starting as early as the second week of January! They’re called prévias because they precede Carnival. Extremely vibrant and festive events, offering a sense of the real thing. My family was able to enjoy an array of shows and parades, with many of the city’s best Carnival groups, before and after the “official Carnaval”!
Back to real life, after Carnaval…
Hummm… Ash Wednesday arrived. Officially, Carnaval is over, right? Not here! People just can’t stop partying, and dancing, and singing… Life is more colorful during Carnaval. Life has a different meaning, during Carnaval. For many, the obligation to head back to work and/or school on Wednesday brought a bitter taste to their mouths…. “Is there any way to skip reality and dive back into the glorious sea of people that came to life during the 4 days of Carnaval?” or “How will we survive when all the Aftermath celebrations are finally over?” many ask… Yes, there’s still a trace of comfort for those who are having a hard time facing reality: the weekend has arrived, and with it, the gorgeous sun rays over the Atlantic ocean, right there, by the Avenida Boa Viagem… There’s still hope – let’s enjoy the weekend at the beach, and very patiently, await for next year’s celebration. I, for one, am already thinking about my costume for the 2012 Carnaval… What about you?
Nana and Abuelito visited Recife, and Brazil, for the first time (Feb 2011). Met their newest granddaughter, Maria Cecília, toured around the city, experienced the endless beauty of Olinda and enjoyed a restful weekend at a beach resort, in Porto de Galinhas. Life is good…
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